Stunning Sibiu Romania & the Transfăgărășan Highway

Most people come to Sibiu on a day trip or at most for an overnight. We decided to spend six nights here to really soak in the atmosphere and it's a city that's worth it. As an introduction to Transylvania, it's a great place to start.

A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF ROMANIAN GEOGRAPHY

Romania has a very interesting history. The Carpathian Mountains are shaped like a boomerang and run from north to south before heading west about halfway down the country.

Historically, and even today, central Romania consists of three main areas defined by where they are in relation to the Carpathians: Wallachia in the south, which includes Bucharest, has a history tied to the Bulgaria Empire; Moldavia, which includes Bucovina, to the east of the Carpathians with a history tied much more to the Russian Empire; and, Transylvania to the west of the Carpathians and tied much more to the Hungarian Empire. The fourth region is the area in the Southeast near the Danube, which we did not visit. The influence of the different major empires of the past as well as the protection - or lack thereof - from the mountains makes each region unique.

I'm writing this from our last town in Transylvania, Brasov, and after almost a month in central Romania we've gotten a feel for the different parts and how the separation of the Carpathians really differentiated the culture of the regions. You can't escape the mountains here and they are a big part of what make the area so beautiful.

In our last post, we recapped our time in Bucharest. In Transylvania, we visited Sibiu, Cluj-Napoca, Sighișoara, Brasov, Sinaia, and the northern Maramureș area. We spent just a few days in the Bucovina region of Moldavia.

TRANSYLVANIA & THE TRANSYLVANIAN SAXONS

Transylvania was blessed to be in the pocket of the Carpathians. As a result, even when ostensibly part of the Hungarian or Ottoman Empires, they maintained a high degree of independence. Their city structures as well as their defensive mindset all played a part in that and can still be seen today. One major factor was the immigration of Romanian Saxons, originally from Luxembourg, the Low Countries as well as Alsace in modern day France, and other parts of present-day Germany, they were called "Saxon" by the Hungarian king and the name stuck. Invited by the Hungarian king in the 12th century to protect the mountain passes from invaders, they built fortified churches and towns that were so successful they are the places we still visit today.

The Saxons did not have standing armies. Instead, they organized life by trade guilds. Each guild was responsible for defense of the town and each built their own towers and fortifications, which when joined together defended the town. The remnants of the guilds are seen everywhere from the towers to the paintings on church pews reserved for the guild. It's a fascinating part of Transylvania and important to understand.

SIBIU

Sibiu was once the most important Saxon town. It had 40 distinct craft guilds, the most of any town. It is also one of the best preserved overall. The historic central areas still feel as though you may be walking down a late medieval street.

And there are a few towers as well as much of the city walls remaining.

Sibiu îs called "the city of eyes" because of the eye-shaped dormer windows particular to the town. It is a funny feeling walking around and feeling watched.

The other really fascinating architectural detail, and this one you see throughout central Romania, is the house configuration. Houses were built along the streets with a large entryway for the carts to enter. They entered into a long central courtyard around which there were more buildings including housing, storage, and barns. Peaking into these courtyards is so much fun.

We even stayed in one just off the main square with our own eye keeping a watch.

We'll show you a lot more in blogs to come but it's the predominant building style.

The focal point of town is the 14th century Saint Mary Evangelical Church; you can glimpse it's spires around every corner. Originally built as a Roman Catholic church, after the Saxons converted to Protestantism during the Reformation it became a Lutheran church as it is today. We were to see many reconfigured churches during our stay and, in only my opinion, it's a shame that the beliefs of Protestantism required the removal of the colorful stained glass and ornamentation from so many of them. While the soaring arches and windows remain, they seem poorer for their white glass.

Just compare that to the Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church. The day we wandered in a small wedding was underway.

Sibiu is also perfectly located to catch amazing sunsets. The western wall that overlooks the lower town has a beautiful restaurant with the perfect overlook for sunset.

Sibiu is an amazing town and well worth visiting. Sitting in the squares and just wandering the historic streets is a wonderful way to pass a few days. We did get beyond the historic center a few times and even took a bike ride using their bike share plan to spend a lovely day in the park adjacent to the city reading, bird-watching, and drinking wine.

The Transfăgărășan Highway

The one day trip we did from Sibiu was to the famous Transfăgărășan Highway.

The highway crosses the Carpathians lower section that separates Transylvania from Wallachia. It closes except in summer when the snows are melted enough to allow cars to pass. Originally built in the early 1970s as a strategic military route by Nicolae Ceausescu to ensure quick military access of the Romanian Army across the Fagaras Mountains in case Romania was attacked by the Soviet Union, it now is known as one of the most beautiful highways in the world. From the north, it is a steep rise along unending switchbacks that ride through a deep, green valley to the top.

At the top is Lake Bâlea. It's a destination with street food, an inn, and of course the beautiful lake where there is snow year round.

Once you pass through the tunnel at the top you are on the southern side where the mountain ranges stretches before you before falling away to Wallachia and Bucharest. We didn't venture beyond the beautiful waterfall about five minutes down the road.

It's truly an epic drive and one we are so glad we splurged to do.

Next up is Cluj-Napoca and Brasov as well as Maramureș and Bucovina so stay tuned.